110 auto project

[Critch]

The exhaust was finished today, and the carb pipes and linkages have been fitted, and just fitted the oil temp sender and adaptor in place of the oil drain plug in the sump. Next job is to start swapping the body, shocks and rear springs... finally

[Critch]

while I had the radiator out gave the fan a spin and it went all loose so am going to have to replace the viscous hub before it goes back in  and the NZ$ has just dropped so its going to cost nearly 20% more 

[Dutchgit]

Looks alright so far. I need to take the fan out as well and fit a leccy one. My fan is a bit wobbly so I best get on with it before it knackers the pump.

[Critch]

the pump shaft snapped on my F150 once 
also had a pumps bearings collapse on my 84 rangie, fortunately didnt take out the radiator as I was in the north island at the time, still missed my ferry because of making repairs, fitted a pump from one of the stage 1 engines I had just picked up.

[Mark-Cal]

Still got the lights, indicatirs and grill from the Disco Mr Critch?

I've got a Disco grill and light surrounds from my L plate Donor Disco sat in me Sankey (I think), any good?

[Critch]

Well finally the removal of parts and the body from the 110 has begun, its looking somewhat naked tonight without any mudflaps bumpers, grille etc. was going too badly, only 4 of the ten rear body bolts snapped and needing drilling and retapping.

I wanted to sort out the slam panel supports and the trans cooler before I stripped everything, and it seems if I swap the supports left to right and vice versa  that with a couple of spacers at the bottom it all should fit 

I am also going to cut some holes in the bullbar vertical webs to make that look a little tidier. I have drilled holes in all the tube bottoms tonight so any moisture can escape, and when it gets galvanised it will allow it to get inside also.

No pics today   

[mdh]

I've got a Disco grill and light surrounds from my L plate Donor Disco

200 or 300 Mr Cal?

[Mark-Cal]

200 m'dear.

[Critch]

We have liftoff.

only 15mm at present, once we found the two bolts in front of the seatbox 

Just the wiring to disconnect now and lower the chassis and roll it out 

Probably could have done it all in a day if we hadnt been doing other bits and pieces but it will get there.

[Critch]

the old 75 has found a new home, hopefully will have many more offroad miles to go yet though


 

[mdh]

200 m'dear.

Shame, I need some nice posh 300 jobbies.

[Mark-Cal]

They will continue to clutter up my skip Sankey then.

[Critch]

tonight after work I will roll the old chassis outside and remove the brake lines, shocks and springs and fit them to the new chassis, hopefully have that ready to fit to the body in a day or so

[mr wuffles]

After doing that once i don't see any better way to do a chassis swap now 

[Critch]

Have to sack the boss for keeping me working later than I wanted, but managed to get the old chassis outside and the bits I need off it. The body is sitting right under the workshop lights so its a bit dark to work on it even with the lights on, so will have to finish fitting the bits tomorrow and roll the new chassis under. When I am ready to rebuild it and galv the chassis I will rent a big workshop for two months so there is room to work around it.

The good news is that my 110 calipers are the same mounting as the Disco front axle, both 12mm bolts just the disco has fine thread vs coarse for the 110, so they will bolt up with the disco bolts. Was a little unsure of that as some are supposed to be different.

[Critch]

Enough for tonight, found enough light to do my front brake lines and shocks, fitted the rear shocks at the bottom, just want to get a coat of paint on the springs before I fit them tomorrow.

Removed all the old heater hoses, found the heater core is loose in the box so another job for next time. Thinking about plumbing the heater and LPG vaporiser in series instead of the tees in the lines, I guess the vap should go first then the heater in the circuit. Also thinking a relay to shut off the fuel pump when running on gas rather than it running all the time against the fuel solenoid.

[Dutchgit]

Thinking about plumbing the heater and LPG vaporiser in series instead of the tees in the lines, I guess the vap should go first then the heater in the circuit. Also thinking a relay to shut off the fuel pump when running on gas rather than it running all the time against the fuel solenoid

Always had the exact same set-up on any RR I've owned.

[Critch]

Yesterday I stripped the rest of the parts from the old chassis and fitted them to the replacement, then rolled it out and under the body.

Today it has been positioned under the body and the body lowered onto it and now bolted in place. The corner of the seatbox under the handbrake was the only interference, (lt95 now lt230) and that was trimmed with the grinder, so was a relatively simple task. bulkhead supports and front wings to be sorted after dinner, and connect up the brake lines and remove the clutch pedal box.
Then tomorrow it will be bleeding brakes.

more pics tomorrow as the memory card was full.

[Critch]

The 110 calipers bolted on no problem, just needed a little trimming on the end of the dust shields.

With the disco rear spring in the front and rubber isolators top and bottom it is currently sitting level, so hopefully it wont drop too much with the winch and bullbar, and the radiator filled. It was about 3" lower front than rear with the old springs.

[MSI]

Looking good Critch

Just a couple of questions no doubt I missed the answers some where in the thread

Why did you put a branch off in the heater bypass tube for the front of the carbed manifold? I'm asking because I've put the interim timing cover on my p76 engine and I'm at the point of working out the cooling system.I'm using the interim efi manifold and that point is block off.The way I think the cooling system goes for me (correct me if I'm wrong) is from the bottom hose to the inlet of the heater then out of the heater back to the inlet at the top of the inlet manifold at the front. The way I see that you are plumbing it is (again correct me if I'm wrong) From the bottom hose to the inlet of the heater with a branch off to the front of the inlet manifold then from the outlet of the heater to the inlet at the back of the manifold? if so wouldn't this create a dead spot in the middle of the manifold where the water is being pushed in from the front and the back of the manifold? hope that makes sense lol. I'm also running LPG and will be puting it in-line of the heater system opposed to T'ed
Why did you use the 110 front brake calipers opposed to the Dicos ones? I thought all Discos had 4 pot calipers on the front like the Rangies.I have 110 fronts here and they are 2 pot which I will be putting on the back of my Rangie
You will find that you have to switch off the fuel pump when you flick over to LPG they made me do it when I installed LPG in my Stage 1 and my 2 door rangie.

[Critch]

Hi Paul. The carb manifold I have has an outlet at the front, though internally that goes to the back of the manifold, so is in effect in parallel with the heater. At the time I thought it would be necessary, but since Mark has shown with his later manifold it was deleted then I probably could have just blanked it off. I believe the bottom hose is on the scavenge side of the water pump .

The 110 front calipers have larger pistons and pad area than the disco fronts, they are 4 piston, are you sure yours are fronts, I thought all the fronts were 4 piston and rears 2 piston. There are differences in the disco piping, with ABS they have only one pipe per caliper, without ABS they have two.

My old system with the LPG had the pump running continuously, but that wouldnt be good for an in tank pump, the old pump was a points type

[mr wuffles]

Why did you use the 110 front brake calipers opposed to the Dicos ones? I thought all Discos had 4 pot calipers on the front like the Rangies.I have 110 fronts here and they are 2 pot which I will be putting on the back of my Rangie

300 tdi ones have 4 at the front and two pot at the back. 110 Fronts wont fit on the rear the spacing for the mounting holes is all wrong. The disco ones wont fit a salisbury rear axle either the spacing is all wrong been there done that. The only ones that fit with the 110 bolt on bracket is the proper 110 ones with spacers. The disco 2 pot ones would fit but you'd need to mill a good chunk off the face of the bracket and i dont think it'd be safe.

[Critch]

slowly getting things organised in the engine bay, had to make room for the powersteering reservoir so had to move the lpg vap and winch controls and coil. Removed all the redundant wiring the last owner had added and removed the clutch pedal and box. The master cyl must have been leaking for years looking at the bulkhead, they had touched up the paint but not fixed the leak. 

[Critch]

a couple more

[Dutchgit]

That looks to be a nice Land Rover that!